Kenya has emerged as Africa’s largest importer of second-hand clothing, a status that brings to mind both the economic realities of affordable fashion and the struggles of a once-thriving textile industry. While some celebrate the mitumba trade as a vital economic sector providing jobs and low-cost clothing, others lament its impact on local manufacturing, arguing that Kenya has become an easy dumping ground for used apparel.
One might expect Nigeria, with its economic hardships, to lead this trade, yet Kenya has outpaced all other African nations.
According to recent trade data from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Kenya imported second-hand clothing and textiles worth KSh 38.5 billion ($298 million) in 2023. This places the country at the forefront of Africa’s mitumba trade, surpassing Ghana, South Africa, Uganda, and Nigeria.
The growth of second-hand clothing imports has been staggering. In 2023, Kenya’s mitumba imports rose by 12.45% from KSh 34.28 billion ($265 million) in 2022. This surge reflects a rising demand for affordable clothing, especially in a nation where economic constraints make new garments a luxury for many.
Ghana followed as the second-largest importer with KSh 30.4 billion, South Africa at KSh 29.4 billion, Uganda at KSh 27.2 billion, and Nigeria, despite its official ban on the trade, at KSh 27 billion.
Kenyan traders import a vast array of second-hand clothing, including shirts, dresses, trousers, jackets, and shoes. Beyond apparel, used textiles such as bedding, towels, curtains, fabric scraps, and industrial rags also find their way into the country. The demand for these goods remains strong, with informal markets across Kenya serving as key distribution hubs.
Industry experts argue that Kenya’s dependence on mitumba stems from a failure to revitalize its textile sector. “We have not been intentional about growing the textile industry,” says Tobias Alando, Chief Executive Officer of the Kenya Association of Manufacturers. Decades ago, Kenya’s textile industry was a major employer, but competition from cheaper imports and policy missteps led to its decline.
MIT’s data highlights a shifting landscape. In 2022, Kenya’s imports of second-hand clothing were almost equal to Nigeria’s at KSh 34.5 billion ($265 million), with South Africa ranking third at KSh 33.76 billion ($261 million). Interestingly, in 2021, South Africa led in second-hand clothing imports despite its policies restricting such trade. The country only allows imports for specific uses, such as manufacturing industrial wiping rags or donating to registered charities.
Nigeria’s situation presents another paradox. Although the importation of used clothing is officially banned, analysts note that second-hand garments continue to flow into the country through smuggling routes from neighboring regions. This highlights the persistence of demand despite regulatory barriers.
Kenya’s mitumba trade is further complicated by its reliance on the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). This US policy grants eligible African nations duty-free access to American markets, with textiles playing a crucial role in Kenya’s exports. To maintain AGOA privileges, Kenya must allow mitumba imports, a significant portion of which originates from the United States. This trade-off places Kenya in a delicate position—balancing the interests of its struggling textile industry with the economic benefits of duty-free exports.
Some officials within Kenya’s Ministry of Trade suggest that the true volume of mitumba imports may be even higher than reported. A portion of these shipments may be transiting through Kenya en route to neighboring countries. “They are crossing the borders,” one anonymous official admitted, hinting at a larger regional trade network.
The future of Kenya’s textile industry depends on strategic policy decisions. Should the government implement stronger measures to revive local manufacturing, or does the affordability and accessibility of second-hand clothing outweigh these concerns? Until a sustainable balance is found, Kenya’s status as Africa’s mitumba powerhouse is unlikely to change anytime soon.
