Italian cuisine like Nigerian Jollof is often viewed as one of the world’s most authentic and sacred culinary traditions, but is it truly what people believe it to be? The reality, as food historian Alberto Grandi argues, is far more complex, perhaps even shocking to those who fiercely defend the purity of “real” Italian food.
Social media is full of Italians passionately defending their food against so-called “violations.” From adding cream to carbonara to breaking spaghetti before cooking, these perceived culinary crimes spark outrage. But why are Italians so protective of their food?
One reason is the deep emotional and cultural connection to their cuisine. However, as Grandi and other food historians point out, much of what is considered “authentic” Italian food is, in fact, a modern invention—or an adaptation that evolved outside of Italy.
The Carbonara Controversy
One of the most debated dishes is pasta alla carbonara. Many Italians insist that the only “real” carbonara must be made with guanciale (pork jowl), pecorino cheese, eggs, and black pepper. Yet, Grandi’s research suggests the dish only emerged after World War II, influenced by American soldiers who brought bacon and powdered eggs to Italy.
This version of history enrages traditionalists, yet it highlights how global influences helped shape what we now call Italian cuisine.
Grandi goes further, claiming that Italian-American food played a crucial role in shaping what the world now sees as Italian cuisine.
When millions of Italians migrated to America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, they found themselves in a land of abundance. They could suddenly afford ingredients like meat, cheese, and tomatoes in quantities that were unheard of back home.
As a result, iconic dishes like spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmesan, and deep-dish pizza were created—none of which existed in Italy in their current form. Even classics like Neapolitan pizza became what we know today only after Italian immigrants adapted their recipes in the U.S.
Does This Mean Italian Food Is a Myth?
Not at all. Italian cuisine, like any other, has evolved through history, trade, migration, and cultural exchange. What makes Italian food special isn’t rigid adherence to “original” recipes but rather the passion and quality of ingredients used.
Grandi’s argument isn’t that Italian cuisine is fake, but that it has always been adaptable. The idea of a fixed, unchangeable Italian culinary tradition is more of a modern romantic notion than historical reality.
So, the next time someone tells you that adding cream to carbonara is an unforgivable sin, remember: even carbonara itself may have been born from American military rations. Italian food is less about dogma and more about delicious evolution.
